This is a living document of mistakes, goofs, lucky calls and hard learned lessons as we bull through the project of establishing and maintaining a Garden Railroad. These lessons documented in January 2012.
• Lesson 1. Track Material •
When we started into Garden Trains this Fall, as I have said, we didn't know pee turkey about it. I didn't even know that there were options for material composition of the rails. I ordered the Bachmann train set not knowing that I would not be able to use the track outside. While awaiting delivery of the train set, I stumbled across someone's passing comment on a forum discussion about Bachmann track rusting outdoors in a matter of days. So, I started looking into it and verified that Bachmann track is made of steel, not even galvanized steel, just plain ole naked steel. So I had to check my order for additional track that I had ordered with the. Luckily, I had ordered brass for the additional track. After further research and another passing comment by my local Hobby shop guy I started to wonder if Stainless Steel was the best option. So I bought a few straight sections of stainless steel. I figured I would try some brass and some stainless to see how they performed. To make a long story short, it was clear to me after only a little bit of running our train with about 20' of brass and remainder stainless -- we had no faltering on the stainless sections. If the train stalled or jerked it was on the brass sections 90% of the time. It was easy enough to use Brasso to clean the brass sections and then all was well but the stainless sections usually did not even need to be cleaned. And, after about 3 days of exposure outside, the brass would have to be cleaned again.
When it comes to cost, I understand that brass used to be significantly cheaper than stainless steel. However, there is not now enough difference to justify the savings on brass. A one foot section of stainless goes for about $9/foot whereas brass is about $7/foot. Weigh the $2/foot savings over how many labor hours you will spend in cleaning brass.
I have read that brass provides better electrical conductivity but I have not detected a difference. Assuming all the screws are in an the track is clean, I find no noticeable difference in electrical performance of the two.
Assuming you are using track power to run your trains, you can't, of course, use plastic track. I have no experience with Aluminum track but I will eventually try some to see if it exceeds the performance of stainless steel. But for now, stainless is king for me.
Moral: Use Stainless Steel track.
• Lesson 2. Derailments at Curves •
The second round of our Mountaineer Train resulted in a derailment at one of my curves. After a while, the train would derail on that curve every third round or so. Therefore, I knew there was some problem on that curve. I watched closely as the train came around the curve and after a few times watching, I saw that the pilot wheels were coming up off the track every time, even on rounds it didn't derail. A little bit of checking with my small torpedo level showed me that I had put a portion of this curve into reverse superelevation, meaning I had the track tilted toward the outside of the curve in that spot. I corrected this issue by stuffing some ballast under the outside of the curve until I had the track tilted slightly to the inside. That solved the problem very well. I have not had another instance of the train derailing at that curve. Superelevation is the slanting of the track (or any roadway) toward the inside of a curve so as to counteract the centrifugal force created when a vehicle moves around a curve.
Moral: Use a torpedo level to assure a slight superelevation on curves.
• Lesson 3. Train Controls •
So far, we continue to use the simple train control that came with our Bachmann Mountaineer train set. Since I only have one loop of track, it doesn't make sense for me to try to run multiple trains right now. Also, unless you have separate tracks, the only way I see to have multiple trains on the same powered track would be to have DCC. Since DCC code boards to install in a locomotive seem to cost more than $50, I can't see spending that money while I am at the basic level of railroading. Perhaps that will come a year or two down the road, but for now, I'm happy with the simple control. I did buy a second controller, this one a Piko, from Ebay. I got it to use on my workbench to test locos and turn wheels for cleaning, etc.
Moral: A simple control is sufficient for basic railroading.
• Lesson 4. Ebay •
When I started into G Gauge railroading, I was already into Ebay buying. I have sold a few things there and have purchased a bunch. While I was ordering the biggest of my necessities to start my railroad, I was constantly monitoring Ebay to see if something popped up that I might need later. At first I bid on some vehicles (you know automobiles) and was able to get some from my chosen time period (1948 to 1950) for a reasonable price. But concurrently, if I saw something else interesting, I would put in a low bid and figure if I got it fine and if not, nothing lost. In this way I ended up getting THREE, yes three, extra Bachmann Big Hauler locomotives. I got them for about $30 each plus shipping of about $10 each. Of course, buying on Ebay is like getting a pig in a poke. Two of my three locomotives ran fine right from the start, even though they were older versions and a little noisy I was happy with them at the price I paid. One of the three, however, would not go around the track. It would spit and sputter and go a little and quit. So, like any curious engineer, I took it apart. I found that the main drive gear, on the left end of the rear axle, was split radially. It took a little doing to pull the wheel off the axle and get the split plastic gear off but I was able to do so. I had read a few stories on the web about Bachmann being kind to folks and just sending a replacement part free of charge so I thought I'd give it a try. I sent a really nice letter to go with it. I enclosed the defective gear and asked that they send a replacement out of the goodness of their hearts. They didn't seem to appreciate my literary skills. They did enclose a gear in their letter of reply but not the one I would need. There was a handwritten note on a form letter that they couldn't send replacement parts for older versions. They referred to a form letter enclosed for rates on repairs to locomotives. Here was their rate schedule:
"During the first year of ownership (not counting abuse) all service to your locomotive is performed free of charge with the dated receipt. After the initial year, breaking of the warranty, or second hand ownership, there is a standard fee for repair/replacement of your item. You can send your items to the address listed above. The fees are as follows:
$15 All Standard non-DCC locos with exception of large scale
$25 Standard DCC and Spectrum N and HO
$30 Williams, On30 and Standard Large Scale
$50 Spectrum Large Scale."
Well, they did give me personal service for my nice letter anyway. But I was no closer to fixing my locomotive. I did seriously consider boxing up my locomotive and sending it to them with the required $30 check but, dern, I had only paid $30 for it to begin with. Should I invest another $30 plus shipping, probably a total of $45 or so? I decided to try something else. I did a diligent online search for "plastic gears". I found a vendor, SDP-SI, that sold almost any plastic gear I could possibly need. Only problem was finding the right one. After some careful measuring and micrometer checking of diameters, I finally found what would appear to work for the locomotive. I ordered five of them (they had a minimum order amount of $25) along with a few other things I might need for a total of about $40 including shipping (they have a $4 handling charge too). So, if the gear would work, I would have invested only an additonal, say, $10 for the one gear and shipping of it rather than the estimated $45 I would spend if going through Bachmann. Of course with the Bachmann route I would have a pretty new gear box and lower side. Oh well, I like fixing stuff. After a week or so the gears and stuff I ordered were delivered. I quickly tried the gear on the axle and, shucks! It was a little loose on the axle and would spin freely. Otherwise though, it looked like it would work. I thought about gluing the gear onto the axle but I figured that wouldn't hold. I decided to drill through the hub and all the way through the axle and install a pin to hold it in place. I did this carefully with a couple of clamps and a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it for a spacer to keep the gear in the right position on the axle. I used my drill press to drill it but could have probably stayed perpindicular with a portable drill if necessary. I put the pin in place (3p nail), bent the end to hold it in place and voila! I had the fix. I put the train back together and it ran very well.
In addition to the locomotives I got from Ebay, I got a really good deal on some stainless track. I stumbled up on an item that was described a little vaguely but clearly said it was eight pieces of five foot stainless track. It also said it was LGB but I don't even think LGB has stainless track. Anyhow, I bid $61 for it and got it, likely because everyone was like me and confused by the description. Sometimes that's the way to get deals by taking a chance. It turned out that it really was eight five foot pieces of stainless track in relatively good shape. So that was maybe $250 worth of track that I got for $61!
Moral A. Good deals are possible on Ebay but it's a gamble.
Moral B. Bachmann folks are nice but not generous. : )
Moral C. Plastic gears are available at reasonable prices.